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We use tools with lower numbers of flutes when clearing our large amounts of materials to leave more space for the chip to clear out of the way. The number of flutes can be used in combination with the chip-load and the spindle speed to determine feeds and speeds. Full depth of material = Finishing pass on vertical contour = Flute Length / 2.It is best to avoid rubbing the area above the flute (the shaft) against the edge of the material if possible Using more of the length of the flute of a tool will generally improve the finish of a surface when you are doing the final finishing passes after you have finished roughing out most of the materials. Step over for a nice finish when parallel planning with a ball end mill = Tool Diameter / 8.We also use the tool diameter to determine both Cut-depth and step-over in our above basic rules.Infact it is required to determine a toolpath. The tool diameter the critical data point in a a tool library.Incidentally, 'dust' collection will help cool the bit and keep it from shmearing like your pics show.Having a detailed tool library is useful as a way to store and access all the data about the tools we have, here are some of the tool features of a tool and what we use them for, note the locations of these inputs in the fusion 360 tool library manager screengrab: You're looking for sparkly black soap shavings/curls. Just like any other material, you should be getting CHIPS off of the tool as it cuts & not dust. Create a toolpath that cuts it in 2 passes using a spiral ramp just to be sure nothing moves. I would suggest using a single flute spiral-O tool (63-614 is fine for this), and set your cut speed to somewhere in the 75-90 IPM range 13,000-15,000 RPM. It is a bit funky in the sense that it is aluminum skinned, but the bulk of the material is polypropylene. Keep in mind this stuff cuts like butter with regular woodworking tools like a Skilsaw or chop saw etc. You are feeding the tool too slowly - the chipload is way too light. The masking tape eliminates the need to remove the carpet tape residue on all but the edges.be sure to use it. Vibration MUST be eliminated or all your cuts will be junk - and bits will snap. It 'dinks' the sheet and causes it to distort no matter how careful you think you are doing it. STOP using screws on metal or metal clad sheet goods. Stick that puppy down to a clean spoilboard. Since you probably don't have vacuum, cover the back of the material where you are going to cut with masking tape first, then cover it in carpet tape - it's double sided and has fiberglass mesh running through it. You're not holding the material down well enough. Remove it after you've stuck it down to the table. It IS designed to be left in place so the parts don't get marred in transit, but it creates problems for a lot of people. It has a tendency to melt and gum up the bit in some cases. You've got a few things going on from what I can see so far.įirst, make sure to remove the plastic protective layer from at least the top side. Mailbox sign.crv3d (93.5 KiB) Downloaded 118 times Results at 24000RPM 85 speed rate (broken bit) Results at 18000RPM and 50 speed on top and bottom is 12000RPM and 50speed I feel defeated as I have no idea how to make it work and I've searched the internet only to find people have made it work with similar settings. 25" and I tried them in 1, 2, and 3 passes still no luck. I don't know how to get it to cut it and look good. I tried one on conventional and a few on climb. I tried it on 24000RPM and 85 feed rate and broke the bit. I tried 18000RPM and Feed Rate of 85 and 50 with the same results. I called Onsrud and they said do a 12000 RPM and Feed Rate of 54 on the small sign but it just rips the aluminum to pieces, it doesn't cut it clean. It's a small 12"x7.5" mailbox sign I just want to cut out. I'm trying to cut Aluminum Composite Material.